Phu Quoc lies off Vietnam's southwestern coast in the Gulf of Thailand, 46 kilometres from the Cambodian coast and about 45 minutes from Ho Chi Minh City by plane. The island is roughly the size of Singapore, largely covered by national park (the largest in Vietnam), with beaches on three sides and a fishing town on the east coast. A decade ago it was a backpacker destination. Today, the north of the island has been developed into one of Southeast Asia's more impressive luxury resort corridors.

When to Go

The dry season runs November to April — the definitive window for beach travel. The water is clear, the skies are blue, and the sea temperature sits at 28-30°C. May to October is the wet season; the western beaches (Long Beach, Ong Lang) can be rough, and the famous Sao Beach on the southeast is the only reliably swimmable spot. November to February is peak season — book accommodation 3-4 months in advance.

The North: Luxury Resort Territory

The northern tip of the island around Ganh Dau is where the premium resort development is concentrated. The Regent Phu Quoc, Park Hyatt Phu Quoc (within the VinWonders resort complex), and Fusion Resort Phu Quoc all occupy this stretch of coast. The Regent is the finest property: 52 pool villas, each with a private beach-facing deck, exceptional Vietnamese food at La Plage, and a spa programme built around the island's traditional fish sauce and pepper heritage. Nothing about it feels like Vietnam, which is either a plus or a minus depending on what you are looking for.

The South: The Real Phu Quoc

An Thoi, at the island's southern tip, is still a working fishing town. The night market at Duong Dong is excellent — grilled squid, fresh oysters, and the island's famous fish sauce (nuoc mam), which Anthony Bourdain once called the most complex condiment in the world. Take a half-day boat trip from An Thoi port to the Southern Archipelago: 15 small islands scattered around a shallow bay, snorkelling conditions that rival Thailand in the dry season.

The Fish Sauce Trail

Phu Quoc's fish sauce (nuoc mam Phu Quoc) has protected origin status — the island is the only place in Vietnam where the real article can be made under that name. Visit Hung Thanh fish sauce factory near Duong Dong town: the barrels of anchovies and salt fermenting in open-air wooden vats, the rich, salt-iodine smell, the amber liquid drawn off after 12 months — it is a remarkable process. Buy directly from the factory.